Biologique Recherche Brand Overview

The Products I’ve Tried So Far

Biologique Recherche is a French skincare brand that has fascinated me for a long time. There’s a certain allure to the brand - expensive, virtually no advertising budget, a tightly controlled supply chain where a consultation is recommended prior to purchasing the product and most of the products quite literally stink. It seems to be the antithesis of what we’ve been trained to think of in terms of “luxury skincare”. This minimal packaging, under-the-radar, if-you-know-you-know approach is exactly what drew me to the brand. I was a breath of… fresh (yeast-scented) air. I liked that they seem to favor spending on the quality of their ingredients and formulas as opposed to buying ads in magazines, selling in well-known major retailers and loading their products with alluring scents.

With that being said, it is also a complicated and confusing skincare line, hence why a consultation is highly recommended. They don’t cater to distinct skin types, instead subscribing to the idea that our skin is an ever-changing thing with different needs at different times of the month, week and even day. Biologique Recherche refers to this as a Skin Instant, and their products cater to the variety of Skin Instants they identify. You can read more about it here.

I have purchased and sampled quite a few of their products over the years, and thought I’d compile it into a post that I can update as I try more. While I haven’t yet had the chance to experience an in-person facial, there are incredible spas all over the world that can do virtual skin consultations and point you in the right direction when it comes to choosing products for your skin concerns. I personally like Rescue Spa and Toska Spa in the United States; La Chambre Des Dames and One2One Spa in Canada.

Note: I used the product descriptions from Biologique Recherche’s website to put the product’s purpose in context.

Lait U

What it is: Lait U is a non-oily, fresh cleanser that respects the skin's natural moisturizing processes. It is recommended for all skin types. It gently removes makeup, impurities, and cleanses without dehydrating. Respects the function of the epidermis. Does not leave an oily film.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/​Dicaprate, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ethyl Oleate, Ethyl Linoleate, Peanut Oil (Arachis Hypogaea), Ethyl Linolenate, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, P-Anisic Acid, BHA, BHT, Polyacrylamide, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Peg-20 Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth 20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-7

I sampled this cleanser a few times and while it was good, it never left a lasting impression enough for me to warrant a full sized purchase. It was a nice gentle milky cleanser, though! I don’t remember it having a discernible scent. It also wasn’t that great at removing makeup - I still preferred to use a micellar water or a cleansing oil beforehand to get my makeup off.

Would I repurchase: Not any time soon but never say never. I love switching up my cleansers.

Lait VIP O2

What it is: An anti-pollution cleanser, purifying the skin of tiny polluting particles that are sometimes even smaller than the pores on the face. Its deep-down cleansing action will remove the urban pollutants that accumulate on the skin’s surface. Pristine again, skin regains its natural radiance and the complexion lights up with a fresh glow.

What’s in it (old formula that I tried): Water (Aqua), Squalane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/​Dicaprate, Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Amniotic Fluid, Perfluorodecalin, Peg-20 Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol Denat, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ethyl Oleate, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Ethyl Linolenate, Poloxamer 188, Laureth 7, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hydrolyzed Silk, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/​Vp Copolymer, Yeast Extract (Faex Extract), Sodium Benzoate, Embryo Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar (Acetum), Tea-Lactate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Alcohol, Sorbitol, Ethyl Linoleate, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Bark /​ Leaf /​ Twig Extract, Papain, Myrtus Communis Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/​Leaf/​Stem Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorphenesin, Thiamine Hcl, Pyridoxine Hcl, Sodium Salicylate, Sorbic Acid

I purchased this twice and really enjoyed it. A milky cleanser loaded with skin brightening ingredients. It has been reformulated since I last used it, so I would repurchase out of curiosity. I’m quite fickle with cleansers and love trying new ones all the time, so staying loyal to just one is impossible. I remember this smelling faintly of glue.

Would I repurchase: Yes. Curious about the new formula!

Lotion P50

What it is: The Lotion P50 is the purest and strongest formula out of all our exfoliating lotions. Additionally, this version contains specific active ingredients such as thyme essential oil and myrrh for their purifying, toning, and antiseptic properties. Due to its composition and high concentration of acids that penetrates the epidermis quickly, the Lotion P50 is only suitable for thicker Skin Instants® , with or without seborrheic tendency.

What’s in it: WATER,GLUCONOLACTONE, LACTIC ACID, GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, NIACINAMIDE, CITRIC ACID, ETHOXYDIGLYCOL, MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE, MALIC ACID, VINEGAR, PHYTIC ACID, SALICYLIC ACID, HORSERADISH ROOT EXTRACT, COMMIPHORA MYRRHA RESIN EXTRACT, ARCTIUM LAPPA ROOT EXTRACT, RUMEX ACETOSA LEAF EXTRACT, MYRTUS COMMUNIS EXTRACT, ONION BULB EXTRACT, THYME FLOWER LEAF OIL, SULFUR, SORBITOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM BENZOATE, POTASSIUM SORBATE.

Purchased once and enjoyed it - this is the iconic product for the brand. This is the phenol-free version sold in most countries, and it truly was the product that introduced me to the wonderful world of acid exfoliation. At the time I was struggling with acne and this helped somewhat, but my skin responded better to Differin. This smells like apple cider vinegar to me.

Would I repurchase: No, but I’d like to try the original 1970 version at some point.

Lotion P50 PIGM 400

What it is: The Lotion P50 PIGM400 is the latest formulation and is enriched with both the exfoliating active ingredients of the Lotion P50 and the brightening agents and antioxidants of the PIGM400 range. Thanks to a combination of flavonoids and wasabi extracts, this version of the Lotion P50 also helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. This is a complete solution that helps to recover a luminous and radiant skin with an even and lightened complexion. Ideal for Skin Instants® with dull complexions and hyperpigmented marks.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Gluconate, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Mandelic Acid, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Magnesium Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Levulinic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Salicylate, Spirea Ulmaria Extract, Vinegar (Acetum) Sodium Levulinate, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol Denat., Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbic Acid, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract.

I repurchased this twice as I prefer this to the original Lotion P50. This formula contains more skin brightening ingredients as it is designed for skin battling hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation is my biggest skincare concern at the moment as the years of acne have plagued my face. While this product on its own wasn’t a miracle worker, it has the potential of really driving results when paired with a routine of supporting products. This also smelled like apple cider vinegar to me.

Would I repurchase: Yes, but along some other products from the PIGM400 line to test their collective efficiency.

Masque Vivant

What it is: This multi-functional mask, rich in antioxidants, will purify the epidermis, regulate oil secretion, unclog and tighten pores, as well as revitalise your skin. It also contains lactic acid, which is one of the most popular Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and minimise water loss. Leaving a mattified, clean and healthy skin.

What’s in it: Yeast Extract (Faex Extract), Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Bentonite, Kaolin, Alcohol Denat., Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Vinegar (acetum), Lactic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum.

My most repurchased BR product, and the one I constantly have on rotation. I love this mask and I reach for it when I’m on my period and I have the inevitable hormonal breakouts. It always helps reduce the size of my blemishes and helps my skin texture appear more refined. To me it smells like soy sauce mixed with nutritional yeast - some people hate it, some love it. I’m ambivalent. It bothered me at first as it was so strong but it has grown on me over the years. It’s quite a savory scent.

Would I repurchase: Yes.

Masque Visolastine+

What it is: Masque Visolastine + offers immediate and long-lasting hydration to provide all the comfort your skin needs. It boosts hydration in the upper layers of the epidermis and strengthens the skin’s barrier to protect against dehydration. Containing hyaluronic acid, this face mask is intensely hydrating. It also has Vitamin E to strengthen the hydrolipidic film and a cocktail of oils to relipidate the skin.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Kaolin, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Saccharide Isomerate, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Aqua, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/- Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tuarate Copolymer, Titanium Dioxide, C14-22 Alcohols, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Palmitate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Phytic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chlorphenesin.

I sampled this twice and while I enjoyed the mix of ingredients I wasn’t that impressed with its performance in terms of moisturizing my skin. This mask had no discernible scent or benefits for me. As far as the moisturizing mask department goes, I think there are lower priced products that perform better.

Would I repurchase: No.

Creme Masque Vernix

What it is: A revolutionary cream mask that helps recondition the skin by providing a "second birth"!  Inspired by first protecting the skin at birth, this cream mask reproduced in its original formulation quasi composition of vernix, with a selection of assets rich in fat, protein and antioxidants peptides. This versatile creme masque is revitalizing, restorative and protective.

What’s in it: WATER (AQUA), AMNIOTIC FLUID, LECITHIN, LANOLIN OIL, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, MAGNESIUM ALUMINIUM SILICATE, GLYCERIN, ALCOHOL DENAT., ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE, SQUALANE, RASPBERRY SEED OIL / PALM OIL AMINOPROPANEDIOL ESTERS, HYDROLYZED PLACENTAL PROTEIN, HYDROLYZED GELATIN, YEAST EXTRACT (FAEX EXTRACT), HYDROLYZED CERATONIA SILIQUA SEED EXTRACT, SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE, SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE, TOCOPHEROL, LUFFA CYLINDRICA SEED OIL, DIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANOL, EMBRYO EXTRACT, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, CERAMIDE NP, CHOLESTEROL, CERAMIDE AP, DIAMINOPROPIONOYL TRIPEPTIDE-33, CERAMIDE EOP PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, PAPAIN, POTASSIUM SULFATE, XANTHAN GUM, CARBOMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, DISODIUM EDTA, PHENOXYETHANOL.

Sampled this twice and loved the texture and healing benefits, it really does feel like a comforting soothing blanket on the skin. Unfortunately, though, it breaks me out unless I’m super precise with my application. It has a faint yeast scent which I oddly found very enjoyable and comforting.

Would I repurchase: No, unless my skin magically stopped breaking out from it. I might sample it again, though, for use on irritated skin patches.

Creme Placenta

What it is: Creme Placenta is a revolutionary treatment by Biologique Recherche. This ultra-nourishing face moisturizer is formulated with powerful active ingredients that reduces the signs of aging, post-acne scarring, and uneven skin tone.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol ,Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Triethanolamine, Lanolin Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-33, Ascorbic Acid,Yeast Extract (Faex Extract), Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Placental Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer.

Sampled this several times and LOVED it. It felt nourishing yet non greasy at the same time. BR moisturizers have such a fantastic texture. I keep meaning to buy a full size of it but I keep getting distracted by other (less expensive) moisturizers. This is on my radar, though. It helped calm my skin down and my skin texture was really nice when I used this. The scent was a stronger yeasty scent.

Would I repurchase: Yes, I’d like to try a full size for a longer amount of time to fully test its effects on my skin.

Creme Dermopurifiante

What it is: This gentle cream cleanses the skin with its anti-bacterial properties, reducing redness and regulating sebum secretion. It reveals glowing skin without drying the surface.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Triethanolamine, Lanolin Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Niacinamide, Yeast Extract (Faex), Alcohol Denat., Ascorbic Avid, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Lactic Acid, Cucumis Saticus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Gluconolactone, Ceteareth-33, Centella Asiatica Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Hydrolyzed Silk, Magnesium Chloride, Vinegar (Acetum), Alcohol, Tea-Lactate, Sodium Lactate, Salicylic Acid, Myrtus Communis Extract, Sorbitol, Sorbic Acid, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Oleanolic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Thiamine HCL, Pyridoxine HCL, Chlorphenesin.

This is my most sampled product from BR, I think I probably have used the equivalent of half a jar of product by this point. I’m very grateful for the generous sampling offered by many BR retailers - it’s one of my favorite aspects of the brand. They are generous with samples and are consultation-focused to really help you get the best products for your skin concerns. As acne control was my main skincare concern for a long time, this moisturizer was the most recommended. It is similar to Creme Placenta, also had a strong yeast scent but slightly less rich in texture and more pore-tightening. This made a brilliant summer moisturizer and I used it when traveling to hot destinations.

Would I repurchase: Yes, I’d definitely like to try a full size for a longer amount of time to fully test its effects on my skin.

Serum Oligo-Proteines Marines

What it is: Oligo-Protéines Marines serum is specially formulated for skin that appears stressed, tired, and dull. As a targeted dark spot and dark circle serum, this product helps to revive the natural functions of the sensitive skin beneath the eyes by stimulating skin cell growth. Oligo-Protéines Marines serum also helps to brighten and evenly-tone discolored skin affected by sun damage or hyperpigmentation spots.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Laminaria Digitata Extract, Propylene Glycol, Illite, Malachite Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

I had the large bottle of this serum and went on a bit of a love-hate journey with it. Initially it disappointed me because I feel like it did not live up to its dark spot fading claims on my skin. It also didn’t really help reduce my dark circles. However, while my individual dark marks persisted, in the depths of winter this made my skin glowy and bright like no other. I adore the liquid texture of BR serums as they are so easy to get into the skin and it feels like they are quite concentrated. By the end of my bottle I ended up enjoying it, albeit more as a glowy morning primer type of product. It didn’t smell bad or good enough for me to remember.

Would I repurchase: Yes, I would repurchase during a harsh winter.

Serum Complexe Iribiol

What it is: This tailored face serum for acne-prone skin is specifically designed to heal the skin’s imperfections. Formulated with Zinc extract and powerful antimicrobial active ingredients, this face serum for acne specifically promotes healing while nourishing and hydrating the skin. Complexe Iribiol serum’s intensive formula leaves pores tightened, skin balanced, and healthy to help prevent future breakouts.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Alcohol Denat., Propylene Glycol, Zinc PCA, Soalicylic Acid, Papaver Rhoeas Petal Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract. Formulated with Zinc Extract,

I went through one small and one large bottle of this serum. This was recommended to me as I have acne prone skin and this is the targeted serum for breakouts from the brand. This was nice but to be honest it didn’t provide me with any better results than a good ol’ Paula’s Choice BHA product that comes at a fraction of the price. My skin also responds to other acne-fighting ingredients better, namely benzoyl peroxide and adapalene. This smelled faintly of alcohol.

Would I repurchase: No.

Serum Dermopore

What it is: This pore tightening serum is an essential product for anyone seeking to minimize the appearance of pores and improve the overall texture of the skin. Biologique Recherche Serum Dermopore is a customer favorite for its easy-to-use, fast-acting formula that will noticeably reduce the look of pores, balance the skin, and leave your complexion brighter and healthier.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract, Maltodextrin, Phytic Acid.

I went through one small bottle of this product. I noticed zero change in the appearance of pores, but it did help with oil control in the t-zone a tiny bit. Nonetheless, I wasn’t wowed enough to buy again. It smelled faintly of alcohol.

Would I repurchase: No.

Serum Placenta

What it is: Serum Placenta by Biologique Recherche is a powerful repairing serum that reduces the appearance of skin imperfections. With a unique formulation, this serum helps to restore the skin’s natural tone and supple texture, preventing signs of aging while minimizing hyperpigmentation spots.

What’s in it: Water (Aqua), Hydrolyzed Placental Protein, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

I used one large bottle of this product and really enjoyed it. I did feel like it lived up to its claims, and when I needed a healing boost post-breakout this serum helped reduce redness and speed up the healing process of my skin. There are other products that I have tried that have given me similar results, namely NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum and Bioderma Matricium, albeit Placenta was enjoyable enough for me to want to buy again. I would actually repurchase all three of those products indefinitely as my skin loves them all! The smell is weird - initially it doesn’t really smell like anything but after a couple of months it develops a stink… to me it smells like bad breath which isn’t a great scent but it doesn’t linger on the skin so it’s easy to forget about it.

Would I repurchase: Yes.

Masque PIGM400

What it is: This is, as far as I’m aware, the brand’s only sheet mask offering. They are sold as a pack of 4 individually wrapped sheet masks that are soaked in a serum rich in ingredients meant to tackle hyperpigmentation and improving the skin’s overall radiance and tone. The promises are very lofty:
“From the very first application, marks of fatigue are instantly smoothed away and erased. Its formula containing a high concentration of brightening active ingredients and exceptional antioxidants, combined with the perfect Lyocell support gives the skin a more even tone and unparalleled radiance. The mask perfectly adapts to the face's shape to enable optimum diffusion of the active ingredients. A true complexion perfector, the skin is instantly brighter and more even.”

What’s in it: WATER (AQUA), GLYCERIN, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE, MALTODEXTRIN, PALMARIA PALMATA EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED CANDIDA SAITOANA EXTRACT, PISUM SATIVUM (PEA) EXTRACT, MICROCITRUS AUSTRALASICA FRUIT EXTRACT, SUCROSE DILAURATE, XANTHAN GUM, SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, ALCOHOL DENAT., TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, PHENOXYETHANOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN

I used one mask per week over the month of September this year, aiming to help improve my skin’s glow after some inevitable sun damage I had collected during the summer. I found that my skin did appear more radiant and even in the couple of days following use, but I cannot say that the results were any more remarkable than just using a Vitamin C serum every day for 6 weeks.

Would I repurchase: I would give them another shot at some point because I did enjoy the immediate effects, but I’m not convinced that the $100+ spent on these masks isn’t better allocated towards an IPL treatment if one has more serious pigmentation concerns.

Thanks for tuning in! I will be updating this as I try more stuff, and am looking forward to exploring the range further. It’s hard for me to get excited about new products nowadays but there is something about this brand that always manages to intrigue and excite me.